Jour 6: Doncaster - Grantham

Pas la meilleure journée! Il a fait un froid de canard toute la journée et on a fini nos 100km sous la pluie avec un pneu arrière crevé  (le mien). Heureusement, il n'y a eu quasiment aucune montée, et un grand vent du nord a bien aidé notre progression!

Personnellement, je n'ai pas trouvé le paysage particulièrement intéressant non plus... Quelques petits villages étaient intéressants ou pittoresques. Ceci dit, la ville de Newark-Upon-Trente est extrêmement plaisante, avec son château, ses vieux bâtiments, pubs historiques, et bien sûr son église. Après York les églises sont beaucoup plus remarquables, majestueuses souvent et sont visibles de loin!  Nous avions trouvé un vieux pub avec feu de bois pour midi, malheureusement il ne servait plus à manger, mais il y avait plein de cafés sympas. On semble avoir bon nez!
A l'approche de Grantham, pendant la seule montée de la journée, j'ai eu un pneu crevé. Il pleuvait fort, on était au bord d'une route principale, donc, au lieu de tenter une réparation sur le bord de la route, nous avons décidé de marcher jusqu'au centre ville (3km) dans l'espoir de trouver de l'aide - et heureusement nous avons trouvé un garage/magazin de vélos à la sortie de la ville. 

Doncaster to Grantham, Stage 6. Cold and rather wet is how the day ended. It was certainly cold throughout the ride, but the forecast rain held off until the very end. It was still wet! We set off in reasonable time to tackle this second day with a 60 mile journey. It was sad that there was no sun; it could have been a very pleasant ride. Certainly some of it - especially the final 8 miles  - was on major A roads to the accompaniment of whizzing traffic, but most of it was down quieter roads through attractive villages - Bawtry, Newark, Bottesford - with their defined village/town centres still enjoying the luxury of small independent stores and pubs with character. Doncaster, sadly, has suffered from the major roads driving through it. However, we could not fault our welcome at the hotel (chosen for cheapness and certainly succeeded on that score) and the restaurant. One thing one notices when travelling south is the sudden appearance of churches. North of York, village churches are modest, austere even, south of York, spires and towers are visible for miles, announcing the presence of a hamlet. This is particularly evident since the countryside is flat and gently undulating. Great for cycling especially with the wind behind one. Of course, the place there was a hill was the approach to Grantham. We reached the top - no problem- wet but determined to find we had a puncture. Nothing for it but to walk the 2 miles to the town centre....of course almost everything was closed but not Halfords. So bikes left safely stored, we took ourselves to the Premier Inn for hot showers and wine! Sleep well La Naranja and Mrs Armitage....

Jour 5: Thirsk -Doncaster, via York

Une longue journée! La première partie, jusqu'à York, était un peu difficile, particulièrement parce que nous étions hors route! Nous avons dû trouver notre route par déduction, en demandant et avec une carte très peu détaillée, mais nous avons traversé des petits villages charmant, l'abbaie de Newburgh et ses jardins, puis le château de Crayke, perché sur une colline. La montée m'a surprise mais c'était la dernière. Nous sommes arrivées à York pour le repas de midi. York est une ville magnifique, avec ramparts, la York Minster superbe, des petites rues sympatiques, etc...

 

L'après midi a été très différent - plat presque tout le temps mais moins joli. Une bone partie était sur une piste cyclable, donc plutôt agréable. Le reste malheureusement, sur la route principale...mais, a ce point là, on en avait plein les fesses et l'important était d'arriver!
Demain la journée sera tout aussi longue, plus de 100km...

A tough day...or at least for my poor derriere; 60 miles from Thirsk to Doncaster. Having said that it has not been a difficult ride. We left in very misty, damp weather, setting off in the direction of York ( we hoped). The plan was to go off piste and try to use the Route 65, the Transpenine cycle route. However, this was not programmed in to the Garmin....who naturally sulked and was given a rest. This meant we were pedalling on trust and indeed found ourselves taking a wrong turning as we faced the very steep climb to the North Yorkshire Moors.Luckily we were still at the foot so that was quickly rectified. From then on it was a lovely ride through very quiet roads and through little villages, many with attractive old houses. We passed Newburgh Priory - a gorgeous looking stately home that had once been a priory until the Dissolution ...but no time to linger. Then Crayke Castle rather incongruously perched on the top of its hill. Arriving in York in time for lunch was a success and the opportunity for a breather. However, we decided that getting to Doncaster without too much delay was important. This did not prevent us following Route 65 to Selby..well worth it, a smooth cycle track away from the traffic of the A19. There were other cyclists and plenty of families out walking; a social route. It also meant we reached Selby in good time then pushed on to Doncaster, this time following the main road. And here we are on time and on the way. Tonight we have gone "basic" for our stay. Nothing can fault the welcome but I certainly feel the hotel website is optimistic in its descriptors. Never mind. A glass of wine and all will seem fine!.

Jour 4: Durham - Thirsk. 85km

Bonne journée malgré un départ tardif! Après un long petit-déjeuner relax chez Kate et Nigel - crêpes, jus, toasts etc - la décision a été prise que Katya irait avec Kate, Nigel et les filles, laissant Julian libre de faire les premiers 40km avec nous.
Le temps était gris et frais mais les paysages toujours aussi intéressants.

Les grands espaces laissant place à un paysage plus rural, nous avons traversé des petits villages très typique du Nord de l'Angleterre, certain très affluents!

Nous avons déjeuner sur le tard dans un pub datant du 18e siècle "qui servait déjà sous Louis XVI". Nous sommes arrivées trop tard pour le repas de midi et l'hôtelière à déclaré qu'elle ne faisait ni sandwich, ni snack, mais à changé d'avis quand elle a réalisé que nous étions en vélo, à proposé une entrée froide et nous a servi une énorme portion de pâté de canard avec du pain frais et chaud  - délicieux! Thirsk est une petite ville sympatique, et assez riche, avec beaucoup de restaurants et cafés. Très anglaise et assez touristique.

 

Durham to Thirsk - the goal for Stage 4. Relaxing in a kitchen equipped with an Aga - bliss - meant a leisurely start to the day. Our plan to leave at crack of dawn was radically revised and after helpings of pancakes, toast and coffee we set off nearer midday than dawn. Was all lost? Far from it. Progress was excellent - and we had boldly ( supported by the Ordinance Survey map) revised our route - or rather, Julian did the hard work - many, many thanks. The result was a journey through green fields on an almostt traffic free road. Green is a recurrent descriptor , and indeed we are seeing "England's green and pleasant land" in all its early summer splendour. But the feel of the countryside is very different -   to Southerners this is still the north. The architecture is subtly different and the stone a warm red rather than the granite grey of the borders. We have travelled through little "villages", past affluent- looking farmsteads, fields still with herds of sheep - but increasingly cattle - and horses. We have enjoyed the hospitality of the Grange Arms in Hornby - a pub since the 18th century, where though too late for their menu, we were regaled with an enormous plate of pate and fresh bread. Fuel for the next stage. Riding past signposts the names are fascinating Thornton - les -Beans. Is this a corruption of Bains ( look it up someone!). And snapshots of history. Have you learnt about The Battle of the Standard - 1138 - when an army of Scots led by David 1 came south in support of the Empress  Matilda and was defeated by an English  force just outside  Northallerton; an important battle but not one allowed by Michael Gove - it apparently established Scotland as a Nation! But I am quoting Wikepedia...! Anyway, here we are in Thirsk or rather outside Thirsk an attractive, busy town ( as is Northallerton - though we rode through rather fast) in the White a Horse Hotel. Time for bed. Tomorrow a long day - 60. Miles to Doncaster but we have hopes of the Sustrans Cycle Route.

Hexham -Durham

On a quitté Hexham assez tard après un long petit-déjeuner. Aujourd'hui, notre étape était une des plus courte, mais la topographie de la région n'est pas des plus faciles! Grandes montées, descentes vertigineuses en alternance. Ceci dit, le paysage était superbe! Kate et Nigel et leurs trois filles nous ont rencontrée en route pour finir le chemin ensemble. Helen (une autre bibliothécaire) nous a aussi rejoint pour  faire un bout de chemin. Arrivées chez Kate et Nigel, nous avons pu prendre le repas de midi au soleil (enfin du soleil!), faire un petit tour de leur superbe propriété, accompagnés de Scrabble et Ludo, les deux ânes etc.... Julian et Katya nous ont rejoint en soirée et comptent faire un peu de route avec nous demain matin.

After a fantastic evening enjoying Hexham hospitality, courtesy of Hugh  and Jill, we left a little later than originally planned. This did not, in the end, make much difference. Cycling through the Northumberland countryside was glorious, not least because there was glimpse of sun. Our journey has not been planned with sightseeing in mind so it was not a case of stopping at every stately home. However, we were cycling through lush green hedgerows and past houses and through villages built in the austere yet attractive grey stone that is such a feature of the north. Travelling by car may be convenient but it is certainly cocooning. On the bicycle one is aware of the scents - the trees, the hawthorn, the bog myrtle ...the green. Also the bird song. I really must recommend it!. However, though travelling through this lovely countryside, I do have to say the terrain was more than a little challenging. If we had hoped that the hills of the A68 were behind us, we were mistaken. There were long slow hauls followed by terrifying descents followed by another steep gradient that would go on for ever; the exit from Ebchester was, I think, the worst ( 13% gradient - luckily we did not know this when we started the climb). However, we met up with friends pretty much on time and have had a leisurely break surrounded by trees, donkeys - and hens! Thank you Kate and Nigel and girls for the welcome. Now we  are planning our next stage - Thirsk. The direct route is by all accounts a busy road, the aim to see if we can programme the GPS to follow something quieter. Fingers crossed.

Hexham. Yes, we have reached the end of Stage 2. We left Ferniehurst shrouded in mist and rather damp - but beautiful. The weather improved with a rather chilly patch mid morning. Hexham is positively balmy. We may even be able to abandon the fleeces! We have spent the day riding through stunning countryside - rolling moors, woods, lush green roadsides and surrounded by bird song. I even heard a cuckoo this morning. When up among the hills it  was easy to imagine the Reiver Clans that once ruled the area - the Percy's, Laidlaws, Armstrongs - and of course Young Lochinvar. This is the country of Scot and S.R. Crockett. We had been well warned about Carter Bar and how testing it would be. In fact it proved much less difficult, just a long slog uphill. The real challenge came after as the A68 following the path of the Romans goes up and down, up and down, up and down - often moving from a realitively gentle gradient to a stiff, steep gradient on the same rise. The downhill was exhilarating, the uphill a test of muscle and determination. The other challenge, the traffic since this is one of the main routes south and though not a dual carriageway favoured by lorries. Today also seems to have been the start of a motorcycle meet as Robocop clad riders roared past us in a steady stream - luckily going the other way, as was a small group of vintage cars. So now we face Stage 3 as we head to Durham. Fingers crossed for a good day.

Jour 2: Jedburgh - Hexham 72 km 1200 mètres de montée

La journée a été courte mais assez physique, avec beaucoup de montées, notamment juste avant la frontière entre l'Ecosse et l'Angleterre. Ceci dit nous sommes arrivées assez tôt chez notre hôte,  un ancien amis de Ferelith, érudit et avec un humour fantastique, qui nous a reçu royalement...

Le Grand Départ

Ça y est c'est parti! Et quel départ! Le climat Écossais fait encore des siennes et après une semaine de beau temps, c'est justement aujourd'hui que tout se gâte. Ferelith et moi avons donc quitté Penicuik sous un ciel gris, avec un temps froid et pas mal de vent! Bientôt, il a commencé à pleuvoir... Le moral a encore bien baissé quand mon câble de vitesse à décidé de ne plus fonctionner - heureusement un réparateur de vélo bien sympatique, à Galashiels  (la ville la plus proche) à pu résoudre le problème! Ouf!!! Nous voilà donc à la fin de la première étape. Une super maison d'hôtes juste après Jedburgh, à la campagne. On a été assez rapides compte tenu du clima et, des arrêts  (pour réparer le vélo - acheter des chaussettes chaudes...).
Demain, il devrait faire plus chaud mais ce sera une étape avec un grand dénivelé!

Well we are here, Ferniehurst Mill Lodge just outside Jedburgh, the first stage of the Adventure completed. I feel a bit lightheaded- not sure how Agnes feels. It has been encouraging to make good time since the weather has been inclement - freezing and rather damp to say the least. However, we have risen to the occasion - or should I say pedalled to the occasion, despite freezing feet, quite a few hills! Lots of lorries and a broken gear cable. I have to report Happy Trails in Galashiels provided the solution to the gear problem with a smile and efficiency; so back on the road after not too long - but not before a sustaining and tasty lunch in Galashiels.
Now enjoying a very quiet evening surrounded by lush greenery outside. Tomorrow onwards and upwards (literally) as we face Carter Bar ....will there be a G + T at the top? I doubt it. Ah well. Tell you how we get on tomorrow